Illustration of finished jewelry items which were created by the Wax Build Up Technique
copyright Michael David Sturlin

The three Munsteiner Phantom Quartz Pendants in this first photo were all done entirely by the wax build up technique. Each of the settings as well as the bales, everything except the hand crochet chains, have been built up in wax and cast. These are 18kt yellow and white gold and have red tourmaline and spessartite garnet accent stones.


This is a classic example of what can be accomplished using a free handed sculptural approach by applying hot wax from a tool in an additive fashion. In this instance the wax was built directly upon the quartz stones to create the setting frames, or bezels. The bales were built up as well, constructed through this same process, by applying the wax to the stones to create a perfect bearing and seat. The contrasting colored bezels and bales were assembled by soldering after casting.



The second photo of the Reflecting Pond Necklace is another item in which all of the components (except the chain and spacers) were done in build up wax. This piece is 18kt red, yellow, and white gold with a Munsteiner Phantom Quartz, red spinels, and blue sapphires.


In this particular case it would have been very challenging to fabricate the angled tailored setting I wished to create using any type of fabrication approach directly in metal. Using the build up method allowed me to form a perfect setting for the centerpiece in wax, elevate the stone to the appropriate height, and provide the stations for the princess cut accent stones to be soldered in place after casting them in a second color of gold. The original four prong setting for these princess cut red spinels was also executed by wax build up and then cast and molded to produce multiples.



This third photo of my Constellation Necklace shows an elaborate assemblage of 12 wax build up components which were soldered together after casting in 18kt yellow and white gold. The gemstones in this necklace are tanzanite, red tourmaline, peridot, spessartite garnet, and diamond.


Each of the bezels, the round pedestals, and the tapered cantilevers were done in the build up method. The wax pieces were notched to allow for precise alignment and then cast in two flasks. (the hand crochet chain, caps and clasp were fabricated in metal)



The fourth photo shows two large men’s rings in 18kt yellow gold with aquamarine and star ruby cabochons. Each of these were done entirely by build up as single piece constructions in wax.





The fifth photo shows three Princess rings constructed in wax using the same technique to create an original ring, which was subsequently cast and molded for reproduction. These rings are 18kt yellow gold with spessartite garnet, blue zircon, and pink spinel with diamond accents.



Each of these preceding items are indicative of my application of waxwork construction; using the build up sculptural method to create jewelry models for casting in precious metal. For further information about the opportunity to learn this technique in an intensive hands on workshop please contact me at michael@michaeldavidsturlin.com or visit michaeldavidsturlin.com


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